We were put up 15 kms from Srinagar in the military camp at Sharifabad. The camp consisted of flat, table top, structures that were covered with thin asbestos sheets; so that the merest drizzle of rain, would clatter overhead like a band of monkeys, drunk on berry juice.
The closest village was an hour’s drive away and could be seen through the bathroom window of our ‘barracks.’ Faraway houses glistened balefully in the mild sunshine, like flat pancakes glowing on a warm fire. When the weather turned cold, the pancakes turned into white dough biscuits with the snow falling like icing sugar evenly over the tray.
Yet, a formidable adversary lurked beneath the sugar-cookie exterior. An adversary with terrorist sponsorship and fanatic aim of purpose.
In the opposite camp we heard of death very often; it was always someone young and cheerful, someone we had just met the other day. Although disturbing at first, this sort of news soon became commonplace. I learned not to let it affect me. I learned moreover to enjoy the beauty of the valley. A treasured, stolen pleasure; bought with the blood of the soldier who died everyday to keep the ‘peace.’ Like ice cream that must be devoured before it melts.
The valley was that ice cream in 1998. We went about feverishly in our vehicle; taking in Lal Bagh, Badami Bagh, Gulmargh and Dal Lake, each within the threshold limit of five minutes. (That’s how long insurgents took to group into attack posses) As soon as we got off the jeep, the QRT would circle us, hands on weapons, alert as snakes. The serene calm of the Dal was hastily stored in memory to be feasted on at a less dangerous time. The whizzing blur of Lal Bagh was painstakingly re-picked and put to order back at camp and the chubby, red cheeks of Kashmiri children, who stood by the road, collecting mushrooms, committed to mental snaps of murky resolution that remain murky till date.
The only ‘legitimate’ leisure activity was wandering about in the camp apple orchard. Every afternoon, prior to lunch, we would swim through the light brown paths around the trees and take in the sweet smelling blooms overhead. There is nothing more peaceful than the sight of the sun shining through green leaves. Even when the sounds of gunfire broke the silence of reverie, the yellow and green above our heads, put the universe back into orbit.